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Ground SOurce Heat Pumps - What your Installer Should be Asking

 

Unfortunately, with the installation of heat pumps about to explode due to the Renewable Heat Incentive (RHI) and other incentives being offered, the installer market will see a number of unscrupulous companies trying to cash in, even if they have the ‘correct' approvals.

As an aside, there are a number of companies who aren't approved who are more than competent, do an excellent job and have been involved in installing renewable technologies for years and are not MCS approved simply as it can be a difficult and onerous process particularly for one man bands, but that's a different subject. [NB: if you want to benefit from the RHI, you will need to use a MCS accredited installer - ed]

It therefore pays for the client to still do their homework on any potential installer/supplier.

The normal guidelines for entering any contract will apply, such as: references - preferably actually talking to previous clients - ideally ones who have lived with the technology for at least a year; talking to a number of companies to obtain comparable quotes; trade associations, etc.

However you would also expect the installer/supplier to ask you questions, and these questions, or lack of them, should give you an indication of whether the company actually knows what it is talking about.

1. Is the building being insulated to current building standards? This should be one of the first questions the installer/supplier should ask as it will determine whether heat pump technology is right for the building.

2. Will a SAP calculation be available? A Standard Assessment Procedure (SAP) can be used to calculate the size of a heat pump suitable for the property as it takes into account the form, construction and insulation levels of the property. It can also be used to check the insulation levels of the property.

3. What is the overall area of the building to be heated? In the absence of a SAP, the overall area of the building can give an installer/supplier an initial indication of the size of the heat pump required.

4. How is the property being heated? UFH (under floor heating) or radiators? This will determine the efficiency of the heat pump and will impact on your fuel costs and hence payback.

5. How is the domestic hot water (DHW) being heated? Is solar thermal being installed? The heat pump can provide domestic hot water if required, however the installer/supplier needs to be aware of this as it does have an impact on the amount of ground arrays and the equipment supplied. DHW is an additional load on the ground and is all year round so the ground arrays need to be increased, also any hot water cylinders need to have oversized coils due to the lower temperature generated by heat pumps.

6. What is the floor construction of the building? Joisted, beam and block or other? Floor construction can again have an impact on efficiency for example for a joisted underfloor first floor system the flow temperature has to be higher than the magical 35oC always quoted for underfloor, as the heat has to be driven through the floorboards.

7. Is a single or three phase electrical connection available on site? Some manufacturer's single phase heat pumps are limited in size (Kensa can offer a 24kW, which is one of the largest in the market place). Three phase is better as the heat pumps are more efficient and it is a more stable electricity supply but expensive to put in.

8. Is an area roughly twice the area of the property available for the ground arrays? For ground source heat pumps horizontal arrays, i.e. slinkies or straight pipe roughly twice the area to be heated is required for these. If this isn't available then the alternative is boreholes. While equally effective they can be expensive.

9. Has planning permission been obtained? Ground source are a permitted development, but air source currently still require planning permission.

10. Finally be aware of any significant differences for claimed COPs. This should be quoted at standard conditions as laid out by EN14511-2 and should provide a means of comparing like for like. Any other standard will give different figures. In fact COPs from one brand to another should be roughly the same as many will contain similar if not the same key components

To find out more about the right questions your installer should be asking, you can visit the Kensa Heat Pumps website for further information about ground source heat pumps.

About the Author

John Barker-Brown joined Kensa Engineering in Sept 2006 as application manager, ensuring that heat pump technology was applied correctly and advising customers on the best use of this technology. In 2008 he became special projects manager and is now applying his experience to grow Kensa's profile and presence in the heat pump market.

Before Kensa, John spent six years as business development executive for a large International company specialising in the control of industrial fluids. There he specialised in growing market share and finding new opportunities for new products.

Am I asking for too much for Christmas?

My mom doesn't have a job and my dad rarely works in the Winter. My parents have to buy stuff for my sisters too. My older sister isn't asking for much, but my little sister is asking for a lot.

Here's what I want:

http://www.rondomusic.com/shadowwt.html

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Musicians-Gear-Electric-Guitar-Metal-Flight-Case?sku=541696

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Musicians-Friend-Standard-Celluloid-Guitar-Picks-1-Dozen?sku=110841

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ernie-Ball-3223-Nickel-Super-Slinky-Electric-Guitar-Strings-3Pack-?sku=101117

http://music-gifts.musiciansfriend.com/product/Converse-Chuck-Taylor-Patchwork-High-Top?sku=421235

and two $50 books. Think it's too much?
Hm..I guess you guys are right. I'll take the books off the list and get a cheaper case.

yeeah :S
if your dad doesn't work much in the winter and your mom doesn't work, then i'm guessing that money may be kind of tight (it's tight even for people whose parents both work!)
if you ask for all that, your parents will feel horrible that they won't be able to afford it all for you.. plus even if they do find a way to buy you all that stuff, they may be giving up things for themselves on christmas or otherwise!
i think you should rethink some of the accessories. if you absolutely need the guitar, then ask for that, but you don't need all the other stuff! see if your other family (eg grandparents aunts uncles etc) would chip in for some of the extras. the books are 50$ each?! thats crazy!
see if theres like a paperback version or something..
asking for all that when you know your parents have 2 other kids to buy for is a little bit selfish,
im not saying you're selfish, i know it's hard not to ask for everything at christmas! i've made like 10 million edits to my list already!
i'm sure your parents will do their best to make you happy on christmas, just try to make it easier for them!
happy holidays

Slinky Electric
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How to Bind Documents With Spiral Coil

If you have recently purchased or are considering the purchase of a new spiral coil binding machine you might need to know how to bind documents with this type of binding. Coil binding is one of the most flexible binding styles available on the market and is really not that difficult once you get the hang of it. Here is a simple, step by step guide to binding documents using plastic coil…

1. The first step to binding documents with spiral coil is to prepare your completed document. Before you ever use your binding machine you need to take the time to print and assemble your document. If you are going to add index tabs, a front and back cover or any other special inserts you need to insert them into you document at this point before you ever start punching.

2. After you have a completely assembled your document you are ready to select the correct size of spiral coil for your book. If you have a spine measuring device you can simply hold your completed book (do not compress the pages) up to spine measuring device. If you don’t have a spine measuring device you can use a ruler to measure the thickness of your book. Spiral coil supplies are measured in millimeters and not inches so you will need a ruler with metric sizes. Just be sure to add 2mm to the uncompressed thickness of your book to be sure that the pages will turn freely. If your document is larger than 30mm you can still bind it with spiral coil but it can be a little bit tricky (sort of like trying to put a slinky on the edge of a book). Before you attempt this you should look on the web for tips and tricks for binding thick documents with spiral coil.

3. Now that you have assembled your book and determined the correct size of coil to use you are ready to start punching. However, before you punch your first page you need to make sure that the coil binding machine is set up correctly. In order to do this you need to take a few pages of scrap paper that are the same size as the pages you are binding and make sure that the holes are centered on your document. If the holes are not centered you will need to move the edge guide slightly to center the holes. If you have a hole that is hanging off the edge of the page you will need to pull one of the pins on the front of your machine to prevent that pin from punching. After you are satisfied that the holes are centered on the page, you are ready to start punching. Depending on your machine you are going to punch your document in sections between 10-20 pages (some large punches can probably handle a few more pages than this). To get the best results, you shouldn’t punch the full capacity of your machine with every lift. You will get a cleaner punch, have less paper jams and prolong the life of your punch if you aren’t trying to punch the maximum capacity of your machine with every stack.

4. Once your documents are punched, you are ready to start assembling them. If your binding machine has an electric coil inserter on the front of it this will be a lot easier but if it doesn’t the process is essentially the same. With an electric inserter you start the coil through the first few holes of the document and then use the rollers to spin the coil through the rest of the holes. If you don’t have an electric inserter you simply spin the coil through the holes by hand. Standard spiral coils are usually 1” longer than the length of your binding edge, this will leave you with extra coil hanging off each end of the book.

5. The final step in binding documents with spiral coil is to crimp the ends of the coil so that the spiral cannot spin back off the document. A special pair of crimping pliers is used to cut off the excess coil and to bend the end of the coil over so that it can’t spin back through the holes. Crimping documents can be a little bit tricky but it is a lot easier if you remember that the red dot on your crimping pliers should always face up.

After you have finished crimping the coil on your documents your document is finished and ready use. Spiral coil binding is one of the most versatile binding styles offering more than 60 colors of binding spines, is flexible and perfect for mailing.

About the Author

Jeff McRitchie is the director of marketing for MyBinding.com. He writes extensively on topics related to Binding Machines, Binding Covers,Binding Supplies, Binders, Index Tabs, Laminators, Laminating Supplies and more.

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