Right Angle
Right Angle
The Right Angle Drill Is A Great Accessory To Your Toolbox
If you are currently working within the construction industry or perhaps to enjoy a spot of DIY in and around the home, chances are you own some sort of power drill. Power drills come in all varieties of shapes, sizes and performance. There are corded ones, cordless ones, regular, hammer and so on. Drills are great and they save you so much time and hassle. However have you ever come across an instance where you needed to drill a hole in a place that was just inaccessible to fit your drill into?
Yes we have all been there and how frustrating is that. You now have to tackle the job from a different angle, possibly having to re-route the cable, trunking etc. This can be very common place if you are say a carpenter, electrician or a plumber working constantly in small cramped spaces or needing to drill between joists and roofing studs.
I have found myself in this situation many times and the last time it happened a friend of mine said "well why don't you buy a right angle drill?" I had no idea what he was talking about and presumed he meant an attachment that fitted into your standard drills chuck, something i had seen and been thinking about buying.We went online and low and behold, the answer i had been looking for all this time and i did not even realize that these sorts of drills were available.
The right angle drill, is just that. It's chuck is a right angles to the main drill housing. Most right angle drills are very compact for the simple reason , they are designed to go where other drills cannot. Like standard drills they are available with power cords or without which can be very handy if the place you need to work is out of the way, has no power outlet or requires you to run a lengthy extension cord.
There are many different brands available to buy and one of the popular models is the Milwaukee 2415 . It is cordless and comes with 12v battery which at first glance may not be as powerful as some but thanks to it's sleek and compact design enables the user to get into those hard to reach places.This model is more suited to the occasional user such as the home DIY enthusiast. It only weighs around 3 pounds so is light in the hands. Some additional features are a motor that delivers one hundred lbs of torque and a display that lets you know how much charge is left in the battery.
For the more heavy user such as those that will require a drill on a day to day basis Milwaukee has the 3107 right angle drill. Like the 2415 it is compact but supplies you with much more power in the form of a 7 amp motor. Fitted with a trigger that is simple to operate you can control the speed easily. The swivel head can be rotated fully to allow access to even the tightest of places. Some models of right angle drill even come with an LED light so you illuminate the area you are going to drill which is particularly handy is dark areas.
So there you have it, the right angle drill could be the best power tool you have bought in a long time and even if you only use it occasionally it will be money well spent, and no more headaches trying to figure out how to drill that problem area.
About the Author
For more indepth reviews on the Milwaukee right angle drill and many other models where we reveal the best prices and real customer feedback head over to our site for more information
On a right angle what is that square thing that shows its a right angle called?
Its that half a square thing that shows its a right angle, whats that called?
I've been doing geometry for almost 20 years, and I've never seen any specific name for the mini square you're talking about.
Right Angle
Video for Lesson 38: Introduction to Right Angles
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Wood Marking Strategy ? Marking And Testing Angles
The most widely used tool for marking right-angles on wood is the try-square. For marking other angles, a sliding bevel or mitre square can be used. The sliding bevel can be adjusted to any angle -including a right-angle; the mitre square is fixed at 45 degrees. A combination square can be used to mark right-angles and 45 degree angles. All these tools can be used for checking angles and corners.
Try-square
This is a tool for marking right-angles and checking their accuracy. The traditional try-square has a steel blade and a wood stock - usually ebony, beech or rosewood with a brass edging strip. Nowadays, many try-squares have plastic stocks these are a better choice if the try-square is likely to be used and left in damp conditions. Many different sizes are available varying from around 100mm to 300mm. Before using a try-square, test its squareness by holding the stock against a straight-edge and marking a line on it. Reverse the blade, hold the other edge of the stock firmly against the straight-edge and check that the edge of the blade coincides exactly with the line marked. Any error in squareness is doubled and should be fairly easy to sec.
When using a try-square for marking a right-angle, make sure that the stock is held firmly against the face side or face edge. When checking squareness, hold the wood up to the light with the try-square firmly against the face side. Light coming under the blade will show up any unevenness.
Square template
This is a useful device for marking wood which you want to cut through. It is basically an elongated L-shaped piece of wood or steel about 150mm long. When a piece of wood is put in the L, two adjacent sides can be marked.
Squaring rod
It is almost impossible to check the squareness of a large rect¬angular framework - the framework for a built-in wardrobe, say accurately with a try-square. To do this you need a squaring rod - a length of wood with one end sharpened to a chisel edge. To square a framework, the chisel edge should be pushed into one corner of the frame with the squaring rod held across the diagonal and the opposite corner should be marked on the rod. The rod should then be placed across the other diagonal and the framework adjusted until both dia¬gonals are equal.
Sliding bevel
This has a steel blade pas¬sing through the end of a stock of ebony, beech or rosewood. The steel blade has a slot cut along half its length which allows it to slide through the stock and to be locked at any required angle. To mark a particular angle, the blade angle should be adjusted with a protractor. A sliding bevel can be used for marking dovetail joints.
Mitre template (or block)
This can be used for making mitres across small pieces of wood for picture framing, say. It is often made of beech or boxwood, about 100mm to 150mm long and L-shaped. It usually has two slots at 45 degrees and one at 90 degrees. You hold the wood in the crook of the 'L' and use one of the slots to guide your saw. Because the slots do not come down to the bottom, the workpiece has to be sup¬ported on a piece of scrap wood.
Mitre box
This is similar to a mitre block but U-shaped. It usually has two sets of 45-degrce slots but rarely a 90-degree one. An advantage is that the saw is guided on both sides of the wood. Good quality mitre boxes have protective metal guides fitted over the slots. For serious mitre cutting (if you are framing a number of pictures, say) a mitre cutting machine, with its own saw, would be useful.
Combination square
This can be used for marking right-angles, checking internal and external right-angles and marking 45-degrce mitres. It is more versatile than a try-square but it is also more cumber¬some to use. The metal stock generally has a built-in spirit level and removable scribing pin. A combination square can also be used as a depth gauge for mortises.
About the Author
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Right Angle